- Hiking the Inca Trail -
Day 1 - Cusco to Wayllabamba (7.5 miles)
The
first day of the trek is relatively easy and serves as training for the
days to follow. We are collected early from our hotel (6:30-7am) and travel
by bus, past the picturesque villages of Chinchero, Urubamba and Ollantaytambo,
for the 2½ hour scenic trip to kilometre 82 (the start of the trail).
We cross the Vilcanota River and follow the trail to the right as it climbs
steeply up from the river. After passing through a small village, the
ruins of the Inca hillfort of Huillca Raccay come into view high above
the mouth of the river Cusichaca ('happy bridge'). The Incas, when they
conquered the area, built a fort here since the site commanded an excellent
view up and down the Urubamba valley and controlled the entrance to the
Cusichaca valley. It is a simple descent down to the Cusichaca river.
From parts of this trail there are great views of the Cordillera Urubamba
(Urubamba mountain range) and the snow capped peak of Veronica (18200feet).
From
here we'll get a great view over the extensive Inca ruins of Llactapata (also
known as Patallacta on some maps). Llactapata means 'upper town' in Quechua and
was first discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and was primarily an agricultural
station used to supply Machu Picchu with maize, the staple crop of the Incas.
The settlement comprised over one hundred buildings, houses for the workers and
soldiers, including five baths.
For a further 4.5 miles the path follows the
left bank of the river up to the small village of Wayllabamba (9,500feet). The
name in Quechua means 'grassy plain'. We will spend the night here. Our porters
will have our tents up and have snacks ready when we arrive in camp. Time to rest
up!
Day 2 - Wayllabamba to Pacamayo (7.5 miles)
Climbing
up from Wayllabamba following the left bank of the Llulluchayoc river
for about 1 hour brings us to 'Tres Piedres' (three stones) and a small
bridge over the Huayruro river. The stream is named after the Huayruro
which is an ornamental tree. It's seeds are red and black. Many of the
porters from the Ollantaytambo district are also known as Huayruros because
of their traditional red and black ponchos! A little further on you'll
enter a beautiful cloud forest passing a waterfall.
A
further three hours trek through steepening woods and increasingly spectacular
terrain brings you to the treeline and a meadow known as Llulluchapampa (11,800
feet). It is another 1½ hours climb to the first and highest pass of the
trail (Abra de Huarmihuañusca or 'Dead Woman's Pass) at 13,800 feet. Once
at the top we can celebrate having completed the most difficult section of the
trail.
The decent from the pass is steep although not difficult, following
the trail on the left side of the valley to the valley floor and to the 2nd night's
campsite at Pacamayo (11,900 feet). This will prove to be one of the most rewarding
days hiking you're ever likely to have!
Day 3 - Pacamayo to Wiñay Wayna (9.5 miles)
From
Pacamayo it takes about an hour to climb up to the ruins of Runkuracay.
These small circular ruins occupy a commanding position overlooking the
Pacamayo valley below.
Another 45 minute hike will bring us to the top of the second pass: Abra
de Runkuracay (13,200 feet). The views are simply unforgettable. This
section of the trail, up till the 3rd pass, is also particularly beautiful
as the path crosses high stone embankments and skirts deep precipices.
After about 1 hour from the 2nd pass we'll arrive at Sayacmarca by way
of a superbly designed stone staircase. The name Sayacmarca means 'Inaccessible
Town' and describes the position of the ruins perfectly, protected on
three sides by sheer cliffs. No one knows the exact purpose of these ruins.
We have to backtrack a little to rejoin the trail as it passes Conchamarca, a small Inca dwelling situated in the shadows of Sayacmarca, which was probably a tambo for weary travelers on their way to Machu Picchu. From then on the path descends into magnificent cloudforest full of orchids, hanging mosses, tree ferns and flowers, passing through an impressive Inca tunnel, carved into the rock, on the way.
The
trail then climbs up to the 3rd pass (12,200 feet). The view from the
pass is stunning with several snow-capped peaks towering above us. A few
minutes after the pass is Phuyupatamarca, the most impressive Inca ruin
so far. The name means 'Town in the Clouds'. Access to the ruins is down
a steep flight of stairs passing six 'Inca Baths' probably used for the
ritual worship of water.
Leaving the site via an impressive Inca staircase leading from the west
side of the ruins (the far end from the baths) we descend a thousand or
so steps. After about an hour of walking through cloudforest you may just
be able to see the tin roof of the Trekkers Hostal at Wiñay Wayna.
This is the last campsite before Machu Picchu. There are hot showers here!
A short trail leaves from the southern end of the hostal to the ruins of Wiñay Wayna. The name in Quechua means 'forever young' and is named after a variety of pink orchid which grows here. The ruins comprise of magnificent agricultural terraces set in an impressive location. There are also many buildings of good quality stonework and a sequence of 10 baths, suggesting that the site was probably a religious center associated with the worship of water. Ritual cleansing may have taken place here for pilgrims on the final leg of the trail to Machu Picchu.
Day 4 - Wiñay Wayna to Machu Picchu (3 miles), Return to Cusco
The
trail from the hostal to Machu Picchu takes about 1½ hours. We'll
wake early at 4.30am, have breakfast and set off on the trail again by
5.30am to get to Machu Picchu before sunrise. The sky starts getting light
by 5:30am and the first rays of the sun reach Machu Picchu at about 7am.
The trail contours a mountainside and drops into cloudforest before coming
to an almost vertical flight of 50 steps leading up to the final pass
at Intipunku (Sun Gate). Suddenly the whole of Machu Picchu is spread
out before you in all its glory - a fantastic sight for all.
When you arrive at the ruins you'll have plenty of time to take photos of Machu Picchu from the classic view point. From the sungate we make our way down the cobbled stairs to Machu Picchu where our guide will take us through the city for a complete tour of the major sectors. The tour takes about 2 hours so by about 10:30 you'll have free time to explore the ruins alone. Your trip leader will then lead a hike up Huayna Pichu mountain. This is a steep hike up the towering peak that overlooks Machu Picchu. The all around views of Machu Picchu and the Urubamba valley below are unbelievable. You can do this hike or explore more of Machu Picchu on your own.
From Machu Picchu we make our way down to Aguas Calientes which
is the nearest village to the ruins of Machu Picchu. We meet here for a late lunch
and a soak in hot springs after which the town is named.
Sit back in a warm
water tub, relax and reflect on walking one of the greatest walks in the world.
